Kickstarting 2011 with a trip to London
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Three weeks in London
Two full days of sun and its short appearance for three days must be considered fortuitous in the three weeks of January 2011 that I was in London, UK. Noted more for its short days which get dark by 3pm, London still has its charms, its cold, wet and dreary weather notwithstanding.
A free offer of accommodation prompted me and my wife to kick off the first day of the new year with a trip to London. We arrived before 3pm the same day at Heathrow airport, Terminal 3, which doesn’t do justice to the city.
The terminal takes one back forty years but boarded up internal areas show the efforts by the airport authority to upgrade its facilities. It is a convenient arrival and departure point for travellers, compared with the airport’s newer generation terminals, as Terminal 3 is the focal point for public transport to London.
Still, wiser judgement prompted me to arrange for taxi transport as I was put off by the thought of lugging two big suitcases and two hand luggages between the steps of at least two underground stations required to bring us from the airport to our accommodation at Canary Wharf. Information about public transport at this website, www.tfl.gov.uk, was most useful with tips on things-to-see-and-do at this other website, www.visitlondon.com
The first hint of how cold it gets hit us as we were guided to the short-term car park. It is like living in a giant fridge with the wind trying to get through four layers of winter clothing! The driver took us to a Mercedes car which he owns. Coming from Afghanistan, he epitomizes the immigrant made good and has been in London for nine years. He is part of a contact network for private airport transport from Heathrow to the city and owns the Mercedes which goes for about $35,000 for a new car, according to him.
A city for all seasons
London is a city for all seasons, if one is not put off by the layers of clothings needed to keep warm and by the short days, grey sky, cold wind and frequent drizzles in winter!
London’s attractions are as varied as befitting a city that has held court for its influence in politics, economics and culture. There is an experience for everyone, from the history or culture buff to the architecturally inclined as well as the nature lover, and of course, those addicted to shopping and food.
“Awesome” best sums up the experience for a first-time visitor walking past grand old buildings, many with characteristic pillars and columns. Ornate is the word to be applied to many of these centuries old buildings, often designed with arches leading to passageways to yet more offices, residences behind their main facades, while others open up to shopping arcades.
For nature lovers, it is possible to take long walks in the city’s large public parks without working out a sweat. Even in winter, some hardy plants and trees provide a visual treat in their faded, yet attractive winter colours.
The bonus from a walk in the park is in seeing the wide variety of birds and squirrels looking for food from visitors. Add the cosmopolitan population living in the city, who serve up a multitude of delectable treats as diverse as its theatre offerings, and it is no wonder London is a city for all seasons.
With a cooking tradition that goes many years, it is not surprising that bread, for example, can be baked in flower pots, perhaps, raising a question today, "why do we need baking trays?"
While much has been mentioned about its comprehensive public transport, the city is surprisingly easy to go about on foot as many different attractions, especially within central London, are located within walking distance. The convenience of overland connections is a bonus for visitors with a yearn to check out towns outside London and the list of sights and things to do is greatly expanded.
Getting a grip on public transport
It is a breeze to get about to various London locations via public transport using the metro and buses. It is the first city to have underground trains providing a comprehensive network of connections. The tube network comprises 270 stations and 400 kilometres of tracks.
While maintenance engineering works are to be expected for such a long-running public transport, the tube, as it is known, is in the throes of ongoing upgrading exercise. Be prepared for long walks when connecting with other services between stations, many of which operate underground.
Some routes require you to step out of the existing transport, and, at the same station, catch an alternative train timed to arrive almost immediately. To catch the right train, pay attention to the LED signages highlighting the final destination of each train.
An alternative is to take the bus but bear in mind that bus stops are too numerous to be indicated individually on the map. It helps to keep tabs on the signages onboard alerting one to the upcoming bus stop or to listen to announcements but this information service appears to be optional.
While there are machines to purchase tickets for each trip, visitors lacking local knowledge are better off buying a pay-as-you-go Oyster card which is a stored-value card, or a Travelcard which is valid for a fixed number of days, irrespective of the number of trips taken on the tube and buses during that period.
On escalators, commuters will overtake from the left, so do stand on the right. But when walking between stations, keep left so other commuters can overtake on the right. That is one quirk about using the city’s underground metro.
Essential London
Except for three days in Paris, we spent almost three weeks in London, therefore, those with shorter visits will do well to make time for some of these tourist sites,happenings and activities.
Thames Cruise
A visit to London is not complete without a cruise on the Thames river. One end of the cruise is at Greenwich, a world heritage site, southeast of London. As the boat wends its way westwards from Greenwich to central London, one cannot help but be intrigued by the unfolding of the past, the present and the future. The journey is a time trail taking in historical sites like Tower Bridge and its adjoining castle with a traitors’ gate. This timeless historical tower co-exists with modern residences and commercial properties along the bank.
Passengers also get a first-hand view of the future of London cruising by impressive modern buildings at Canary Wharf. It can boast of having the tallest building in the UK, One Canada Square, 50 storeys high with a roof pyramid that tops up at 235 metres. Its commanding presence, however, is being frittered away by a new development, the Shard Tower, standing at 300 metres which is due for completion in 2012.
The other option is to start the cruise at Westminster ferry point and head towards Greenwich. Do bear in mind that discounts are given for holders of the travel stored-valued Oyster card as well as for those above 60 years.
Changing of the guard
Buckingham Palace is the venue for a grand ceremony involving changing of the guard that has drawn tourists all over. Not that well publicized because it is further away, a visit to the royal family’s residence, Windsor castle, also offers opportunity to enjoy the stirring music and spectacle of the mounting of the royal guards.
The parade in London is certainly a draw for thousands of tourists. Accompanied by military band, the soldiers march into the palace grounds through the gilded main gate tor the handing over ceremony. They march out through another gate which gives equal photo opportunities to the crowd gathered in and around the Victoria monument.
Parks
Near Buckingham Palace are two parks, St James Park and Green Park, which have been havens offering respite and tranquility in the middle of London , both within walking distance and well served by the metro.
While bare trees are to be expected in the cold season, the lake at St James Park is a sanctuary for squirrels and a great variety of birds with hardy plants competing for attention in their faded winter colours.
A short walk from the two parks is Hyde Park, which is well known as a venue for upholding free speech with its Speaker’s Corner, where orators share their views on world affairs every Sunday. Each of London’s many parks has its own characteristic appeal and they are all united in being peaceful havens in a city reputed to have the highest number of parks.
Theatres
Culture vultures will find a programme worthy of their interests in London from opera, musical, drama and comedy through to burlesque or cinema offerings. This city is known for its arts culture and theatres abound, many within stone’s throw in central London, especially the belt between Covent Garden and Leiceister Square.
Prices direct from the ticketing office are not cheap, so get onto the Internet. Check out the events and book online at www.seetickets.com or www.getintolondontheatre.co.uk. Some form of payment via the Internet is required and tickets can be picked up at the theatre just before the show starts.
We took in two shows, a musical for all ages entitled “Wicked” with impressive backdrop sets and a musical entitled “Mamma Mia” honouring the music of Swedish singing sensation Abba.
Shopping and street markets
London is a shopping mecca. Westfield Shopping Centre, the biggest shopping complex, is a good place to get a sampling of the range of retail offerings. Although it is located outside the established shopping areas of London, it is well served by the tube and Shepherd’s Bush and White City are two of the four tube stations close to it.
Within greater London, street decorations for Christmas added to the festive air at the well established Regent and Oxford streets in early January. The options for shoppers, of course, extend beyond these two streets as retailers offering everything from foot and fashion wear as well as accessories, and even supermarkets, drive up the sales fever with attractive discounts.
Although we missed the long heard of mad-rush for post-Christmas winter sale, shops in the city continued to attract many looking for bargains. The shopping fever appeared to continue unabated in January with people stocking up for the next winter.
The city’s appeal is not just the shopping streets with designer wear for male and female, or the boutiques and accessories shops but also the street markets with their rich history, some going back more than a hundred years. The distinctive street markets include Leadenhall market within the old financial district, Greenwich market and Borough market, near the London Bridge tube station.
Greenwich
To get a different flavor from big city, we decided to take the metro, Docklands Light Railway, from Canary Wharf to Greenwich, a quaint town south east of London.
It is the site of the Royal Observatory which sits atop a hill within London’s oldest park, Greenwich park. It is the starting point for the Greenwich Meridian where time is measure in terms of GMT+ providing a common basis for those having to know the time difference between countries.
Greenwich is a world heritage site. Despite its immense contributions to astronomy and science, it retains its small town allure. The landscape is dominated by residences, many with chimneys while historical buildings are located in a quarter nearer the river. It is one end of the cruise route and a good starting point for the Thames river cruise.
Located near the cluster of historical buildings at the river, Greenwich market, which opens from Wednesday to Sunday, highlights the town’s cosmopolitan appeal. The vibrant marketplace is an experience of sense, smell, sight and taste.
Visitors can get to see unusual items from customized plastic bracelets to sheepskin rugs and leather products through to ethnic cuisine including Caribbean, Portuguese, Italian and African. Its management has informal one-hour sessions for would-be traders to make their pitch to sell their wares at the market. Decisions on new stall holders are based on uniqueness of their offerings which keeps the market evergreen for interesting products and services.
Food
Turn a corner in just about any street in the business district and the coffee and sandwich outlet can be found. A coffee culture is certainly deeply entrenched in the city. The players include local, regional and global brands.
Fish and chips is a staple but be careful with your order in neighbourhood outlets. A large order for chips may get you really big bag with too much for even two persons. At tourist spots, train stations, through to any gathering points of retail outlets, fish and chips are inevitably offered, especially as a takeaway. The best such joint, we find, is at the open ground at Tower Bridge, within what looks like a ‘dungeon’ on the ground floor. It serves the staple with a good measure of greens and the fish is done just right without too much batter which goes well with a beer.
Eating healthy is a common theme for a new generation of outlets offering fusion food of the east and west. The extensive array of vegetables and herbs , along with proteins, are offered with soups, wraps, rice and noodles and are done fast food style. Budget about five to seven pounds per head and add couple more for drinks.
A mecca for architectural photography
Because of the road closures on our arrival, the detours within central London provided first insights and a contrast of the diversity of its architecture. Bearing in mind the city’s long history, and as far as the eye can see in the dark, London is replete with a network of narrow streets and many grand historical buildings.
Featuring carvings and ornate patterns across the length and breadth of the façade, each building exudes a character of its own. These grand old ‘dames’ maintain a dignified air, whilst located, sometimes incongruously, cheek-by-jowl with modern metal and glass complexes.
Through the centuries, the country’s long-preferred choice of bricks, stones and concrete have led to most intriguing architectural landscapes. Striking brick-homes with chimneys, outstanding historical commercial and public properties lend a different perspective to the landscape amidst modern developments.
These historical buildings are great subjects for photography, especially during the rare moments of a blue sky, and the imagery of angles, pillars, columns, form, structure and shadows become the order of the day for the photography buff.
As for modern structures, the saving grace is the ability to work with new materials that add dimension, shape and form to such developments to make up for the lack of architectural details associated with historical buildings.
The old and new financial district
The closure of numerous streets around central London for the new year celebrations was in a way a blessing in disguise. The airport is located west of the city whereas our accommodation at Canary Wharf, the new financial district, is on the east. While navigating through central London, he had to make several diversions to avoid the roads that were closed until 6pm that day for the new year celebrations.
Arriving at our destination, the open area of Canary Wharf was a fairyland of blue lights that adorn the trees, presumably a part of the Christmas decorations, a sight made complete by ducks swimming and seemingly enjoying themselves in the cold water.
After a 1-1/2 hour taxi journey from the airport with lots of diversions, we reached our destination, a studio apartment at Marsh Wall, Canary Wharf. We were treated to a vista like any modern city - well-lit modern skyscrapers of all shapes and sizes towering above a row of colourful low-rises by the water.
The spanking new offices and some residences are built on what used to be the docklands under a bold master plan to rejunevate the area as the new financial district of London. After a slow start, its successful transformation can be seen in the 100,000 people working in the area, which becomes obvious at crunch-time when everyone heads for home on the tube in the evening.
As with any modern metropolis, Canary Wharf is a far cry from the old financial district just a few stops away at the Bank tube station.
The Bank of England building sits within the old financial district which exudes a stately charm. Its unique appeal is exemplified by the nearby Leadenhall Market which is a gathering point for people working in the area.
An alluring collection of shops and stalls operating in a maze of streets under skylight canopy is busy with many people standing around to enjoy a cuppa or a bite testify to its popularity. The outlets offer not just beverages , sandwiches and western meals but also Malaysian food.
As for Canary Wharf, its big shopping mall spanning the basements of several buildings within the development, is like many similar ahopping centres anywhere. Much bigger in scale with many food joints taking on a healthy theme, and copycat coffee and sandwich outlets, along with other shops offering everything from supermarket items to household and fashion wear and accessories, it attracts many shoppers but somehow lacks a certain charm.
posted by Ek Heng @ 2:53 PM
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