An April cruise-fly trip covering three Asian countries (Part 3)
Macau: Here we comeThe red turbojets of the ferry operator stand out at the Hong Kong-Macau ferry pier at Hong Kong island. Being rather early, we are resigned to wait for the 1:30pm ferry but the staff are fairly relaxed and allow us to board the ferry even though it is one hour early.The one-way ticket costs HK$146 each and a time slot must be indicated unless you are booking for immediate departure.
The ride is uneventful and with all windows frosted, it is somewhat boring but one-hour passes by soon enough. When the turbojet begins to slow down, it becomes clear we are at our destination.
Custom and immigration formalities are soon dispensed with and getting out of the restricted section, while deliberating the direction to catch a taxi, we are accosted by a lady. She offers to bring us to the Ole London hotel but professes not to know its location until after making a phone call to ask for direction.
Having read in Macau tourist websites that many places on the peninsula are within walking distance, I am taken aback by her quote of HK$200. We start to walk out toward the taxi stand and the price is brought down to HK$150. Having to lug two luggage, I suppose, convenience becomes the keyword although my sixth-sense tells me to continue walking towards the taxi stand. On hindsight, it should also be cheaper, just HK$60 to HK$70, I later learn, to catch a nearby taxi. To take this private car, we actually have to a longer journey by foot, cross an underpass, to a carpark opposite the ferry terminal.
Old quarters
A less than 15-minute journey and we are at Ole London hotel which has recently been renovated. It used to be a guest house. Offering wireless Internet, the room is basic and clean, and at HK$550, is decent rate for peak period. Located at the old quarters, it is 5-minute walk to the historic centre, and about 25 minutes walk to the integrated casino resorts built by overseas investors who broke the monopoly on gambling by its well-known casino magnate, Stanley Ho.
Unlike Hong Kong, Macau does not hit you with the over-powering presence of skyscrapers but lets you absorb its local flavour and its contrast of new and old quarters. One caveat, though, is to get your hotel and address written in Chinese which you can show to the taxi driver as to avoid misunderstanding.
Narrow, hilly streetsWith its labyrinth of narrow and sometimes hilly streets, and buildings standing cheek by jowl, the old quarters is a little like Hong Kong island. The architecture is different and eye-catching apartments dot the landscape though some of the old buildings are in need of a paint job.
All kinds of businesses can be found at the shop houses, especially in areas that still attract tourists while others in quiet streets are shuttered, a consequence, perhaps, of the new shopping centres sprouting up in the newer sections of Macau.
Local flavour
At one of the narrow roads behind the hotel, pockets of people can be seen waiting to go into a few shops. It turn out these shops at Rua De Felicidade are offering sharks fin at very competitive prices while others are selling local delicacies such as almond cookies, peanut-based snacks, barbecue pork and cuttle fish.
Needless to say, dinner is taken at one of the food outlets at Rua De Felicidade which offer delicacies favoured by many Chinese – sea cucumber, fish maw, dried scallops and cabbage – in two claypots and rice for a total of HK$220. On another occasion I give the local pork burger, complete with bone, a try.
At one end, towards the inner harbour area, which is the older and quiet section, Rua De Felicidade meets up with Avenida De Almeida Ribeiro, what I consider to be the ‘main road’, but for most part they are parallel. At the other end, Almeida Ribeiro leads to the new section where the integrated resorts are.
One particular trait of Macau is the many female riders on scooters zipping about on the streets which is not as common in Hong Kong or Singapore.
Culture this way, gambling that way
In the day, the ‘main road’ provides bearing to head to the Senado Square, the renovated cultural hub whereas at night it points to the bright lights of integrated resorts, a good 25-minute walk away.
Senado Square comprises renovated buildings of yesteryear housing modern businesses selling fashion wear, accessories, interspersed with money changers, local eateries, including fusion and local version of fast food such as pork hamburger. Through side roads, it is linked to various historic sites like churches, temples and fortresses.
At night, from the ‘main road’, the integrated resorts beckon and the grand daddy is the established Grand Lisboa with its over-stated and colourful animated lights that one cannot but help notice.
To one who understands Chinese, the lighted signages of several pawnshops one street away from the integrated resorts is telling about casinos that give rise to a secondary industry when gamblers don’t know their limit.
Gambling enclaveA check on the Internet shows there are 36 casinos in Macau, from the older and smaller operations to the massive new generation integrated resorts. We decide to be acquainted with five resorts, the Lisboa, Wynn, MGM, Sands and The Venetian. From the Internet, I recall that a free shuttle service is available from Sands to The Venetian at Taipa island which is linked by bridges to the peninsula. No doubt the common attraction is gambling but each resort has its different appeal.
LisboaAt the Lisboa, the owner has decided to share his collections of jade and other ornate carvings at the lobby. Other attractions at its lobby include multi-carat precious stones that are out of reach of masses but will nonetheless leave a deep impression what money can buy.
Wynn & MGM
Wynn resort has its musical fountain outside the hotel where water sprays dance to the music along with multi-coloured lights making it a must-visit spot at night. Our visit to MGM Grand resort is rather short as it is near to lunch time and what is memorable are the famous lions, giant replicas. Within the hotel, we come across a large scale replica of building facades that are reminiscent of movie sets. Taking centre-stage are two curved staircases leading to a grand second level which can pass off as the entrance of the palatial mansion.
Sands
Sands catches the eye from afar with its use of black and gold façade. It is memorable for the shows that are staged within its casino which are shown on two giant screens. While here, we decide to have buffet lunch at HK$108 per head. It offers an interesting spread ranging from Japanese selections like sashimi to vegetable tempura, all laid out in a food line which also includes western cold dishes, Asian hot dishes. There are also a variety of greens along with choice of noodles that are cooked to customers’ orders and, of course, the cakes and confectionary and drinks.
After lunch, we take a walk down to the road level where the shuttles to The Venetian and other gateways to China are stationed. It’s a 20-minute trip over a bridge to the Taipa island where The Venetian is located.
The Venetian
Everything about the Venetian is on a big scale and it is obvious when one gets nearer the site that the building and windows - read rooms – seem to go on and on, some 3,000 rooms!
The shuttle drops us off in a very big car park and we enter the West Lobby. I interpret that to mean there are four lobbies which is not surprising. As we enter the main entrance, a few groups of visitors crowding the lobby are making their way into the resort too.
We quietly follow a tour leader of one English-speaking group of visitors. Soon, we are making our way from ground to second level where the mega-shopping mall is located.
Living up to its claimConsidering it is very bright and sunny outside, we are surprised to find clouds and a lot less glare in the mall, thinking the Venetian’s architect has used the skylight to good effect. It quickly became clear an artificial sky has been created throughout the shopping mall to provide a balmy climate for shoppers.
Shopping is done under Venetian streetscapes complete with canals and gondolas staff by a mix of musically included Italian and local gondoliers.
Its website claims it is the second biggest building in the world and the biggest shopping mall in the region and I’ve no reason to doubt it, considering there are four sections to be covered in the walking tour, and many escalators lead to its mega-casino. There is a wide selection of shops selling all manner of products from fashion wear, undergarments, accessories to fast food, local food and coffee joints can be found here.
One attraction at the Venetian is the Cirque de Soleil show and we take in a spectacular 1-1/2 programme where performers appear to ‘fly’ in and out effortlessly, above the audience, doing their acrobatic feats and acting out spectacular fantasy roles in the best tradition of choreography in 3D perspective.
Time flies when one has new things to constantly check out and six hours passed very quickly before we decide to take the shuttle back to Sands at 10:30pm. It was a short 10-minute taxi ride back to the hotel costing HK$50.
In the morning of our departure, a reminiscent walk at Senado Square serves to round up the trip. The new air-conditioned food outlets notwithstanding, I cannot help but partake a bowl of piping hot congee from one of the many roadside stalls operating at several side-roads. Then it is time to check-out and off to Macau airport for a flight back to Singapore.
Labels: Asia, cruise, culture, Hong Kong, Macau, photography, The Venetian, travel, vacation, Vietnam
An April cruise-fly trip covering three Asian countries (Part 2)
Hong Kong, southern China and MacauAfter DanangWe are at sea for two nights after leaving Danang where very slight listing of the ship from time to time suggests the waves are stronger, as borne out by the froth that could be seen from my porthole. It has been bright and sunny during the day and the jacuzzi at the stern of the ship and swimming pools in the mid-section are full of sun worshippers.
Twinkling lights to skyscrapersEarly the next morning, the presence of more passing ships and increasing presence of twinkling lights are first clues that we are approaching the outlying islands of Hong Kong. From my review of maps downloaded from the Internet, I can tell we are passing Lamma island, south of Hong Kong island.
As we sail around Lamma island, despite the early morning mist, Hong Kong hits you straightaway with its long Tsing Ma bridge in the distance and impressive skyscrapers dominating the Kowloon and Kong Kong island.
Costa Allegra is slated to berth at a cargo port at Kennedy town, on Hong Kong island which is opposite Kowloon, where the passenger terminal is, but supposedly occupied,. All passengers are treated to outstanding views of the tall skyscrapers built almost to the water’s edge, as the ship is assisted alongside the berth. Here again, the shipboard communication could have been improved, as a free shuttle run to Kowloon was available but not all passengers were aware of the service.
Hong Kong is a nice lower 20 degree Celsius around mid-April. Having made plans to go to Lantau island and take a ride on the much written about Ngong Ping cable car We quickly disembarked to take a cab, costing HK$40 from Kennedy port to Central station on Hong Kong island. From here, we board the MTR at the Tung Chung MTR line to its last stop, where else, but at Tung Chung, at Lantau island.
Ngong Ping: Impressive cable car rideAt Tung Chung station, a fair-sized shopping centre is good reason to do a tour of the place before we proceed to a neighbouring facility housing the cable car station. As we didn’t pre-booked tickets, we have to wait 45 minutes in an ever-growing queue because of the Good Friday holiday. It costs HK$107 round trip each for a normal cabin. The cable car ride is impressive going ever higher, taking about 25 minutes altogether.
It traverses a short stretch that takes one across a mid-point overlooking the airport and then makes a right angle turn to go all the way uphill to Ngong Ping village. Along the way, one can take in the panoramic views of the mountain and neighbouring seas. The sight of the long trail of cable cars at this stretch of the ride is equally breathtaking.
A large Buddha on top of a hill at about 500 metres height, where a monastery is located, is visible before one reaches Nong Ping village, located on a plateau, comprising a series low buildings in Chinese style architecture selling local artifacts, desserts, delicacies and fusion food. We had a satisfying lunch at Zen Noodle Café costing HK$190 for four persons which rounded up the trip to Ngong Ping village. The cable car ride is equally spellbinding.
On the way back, just one station away, we switch MTR at Sunny Bay to catch a dedicated train ride to Disneyland Resort. As there are no children in our group, we are not keen on getting into the resort so we just took a quick look of the view from within the station. All we see is an archway with the Disneyland Resort name but we understand subsequently that we have to walk out of the station for a few minutes to get to the entrance.
Good MTR networkA word about Hong Kong’s excellent integrated mass rapid transit of MTR. It is a very convenient and fast mode of transport that takes visitors close enough to most interesting sites at reasonable costs. Furthermore, we bought the Octopus cards which can be also be used on the tram service at Hong Kong island and some buses that ply along the touristy venues as well as the famous Star Ferry to Kowloon.
One needs to put HK$50 as deposit and initially pay another HK$100 upfront for transit fees, as the balance can be refunded at the last MTR stop before you leave Hong Kong.
One point to remember about MTR stations in the city is that there are many underground exits and it is important to remember the right one to use or you can end heading the wrong way.
Budget hotel on Hong Kong islandAfter taking the Tung Chung MTR at Lantau back to Central station at Hong Kong island, we take a cab back to the ship. Thereafter, I collect my luggage from my sister’s cabin as she and my dad are taking the full 14-day cruise, I disembark and take the same cab to check into a boutique hotel, Mingle on the Wing, at Hong Kong island, Wing Lok Street, which I have pre-booked. It’s a nine storey building with four rooms per floor.
Considering the weekend is a Good Friday and Easter Monday, and obviously the peak season for hotels, I manage to get a room for about HK$550 a night for three nights. Although very compact, the room has a modern bathroom and comes with free Internet cable connection.
We only found out that our hotel is less than five minutes from one of the many underground MTR exits at the end of the second day! Until then, thanks to the cool weather, we enjoy taking the longer roundabout surface route to the nearby MTR Sheung Wan station, one end of the Island line traversing Hong Kong island, west to east.
WaterfrontWe find we can walk to the waterfront in the cool April weather in less than 15 minutes. To cross major road between the waterfront and interior roads, we quickly learn to use overhead bridges and MTR tunnels, with the help of map of the neighbourhood map downloaded from the Internet. We find our way to upmarket Times Square shopping complex housed within the International Finance Centre.
Located at the waterfront is the row of piers to catch ferry rides to various islands, including the turbojet ride to Macau, which I will be using in three days time.
And of course, the well-known Star Ferry is available to cross over to Kowloon, which is over all too soon, just five minutes.
Although we heard about the light show at the waterfront, we are too early, but just the rows of the buildings lighting up one after another at mainland Kowloon is a sight to behold. It’s an experience unique to enjoy the Hong Kong
harbour with its tall brightly lighted buildings jam-packed at the waterfront.
New and oldThere is no lack of places to eat on Hong Kong island. On the first night, dinner is at one outlet belonging to a chain of a new fangled food joints but the highlight in our search for eateries is cap by our success in locating a traditional Chinese dim sum restaurant. Located at 188 Des Voeux Road, it is just 10 minutes walk from our hotel. For two mornings, it is dim sum breakfast, ala Hong Kong style, comprising congee and three plates of dim sum costing around HK$85 at Sportful Garden Restaurant.
Another worthwhile experience is walking around the older part at the western fringe of the commercial area and shopping streets of Hong Kong island, where buildings stand cheek by jowl.
A part of the area is marked by steps and slopes leading to the residences at the mid-level. The roads are narrow but the different businesses and road-side stalls selling everything from fruits, household knick-knacks, antiques to Chinese medicine, snacks, desserts, drinks, eateries and other items made for an interesting walking tour.
We did find our way to the famous Lan Kwai Fong street where pubs bring their speakers to the front doors to blast their very loud renditions of music and songs, enough to justify a hasty retreat to the more peaceful but nonetheless busy and narrow streets.
Southern ChinaOn the second day, after an early lunch, we decide to catch up with a relative who works in Dongguan. The trip starts with the MTR at Central station - the Tsuen Wan line that runs north to Kowloon. A switch to a different line is required and at Mongkok station, we change to the Kwun Tong line. It takes us to Kowloon Tong station, where we again change trains, this time taking the East Rail line which is headed for Lo Wu, the final station straddling Hong Kong’s border with southern China.
After getting down from the MTR at Lo Wu, and passing through Hong Kong’s immigration counter first, we then cross a short stretch within the same building where we find ourselves again presenting passports but, this time to China’s immigration authority. It is a surreal experience crossing from one country to the next and all located within the same building! As a special administrative region, I suppose there is a need for separate immigration stamps!
Lo Wu is the southernmost transport hub with mass rapid transit and train connections heading north into China. It is massive complex with buildings forming a U-shape and my first glimpse of the China and a quick lesson on how everything is scaled up to cater to its big population. There is a big bus interchange at road level underneath one of the non-airconditioned shopping centres and equally big open public area, presumably for community gatherings. The shopping centre is replete with vendors selling clothes, fashion accessories, bags and luggages with restaurants taking the bigger units at the corners of the buildings.
Dongmen : Ladies marketA subsequent short MTR ride north to Dongmen or East Gate was a quick introduction into China and its teeming population! The sight of pedestrians within the shopping precinct fully occupying the side roads with scant regard for cars and motorcycles sharing the same space is an educational experience.
Amidst the busy streets and pavements, shops take their one ups-man-ship seriously as some station their staff on ladders outside the shop front to draw attention to the offerings within.
Styling hair at own expenseOne notable trait about shopping in China, which is also practised in Hong Kong, is that shop staff are required to pop into a saloon to have their hair styled and the cost is taken off their salary! Also, a treat to shoppers is the lively environment and interaction between sales staff. Every so often, a staff is heard declaring in Cantonese - to the best of my knowledge – about a sale made or an impending trip to the store-room, which almost immediately invites a chorus of response from others, an endearing shopping experience.
Old habits : New facadeThe modern façade within the shopping belt belies the disparity in living standards of its people, typical of a country that is as big as China. Along the roadside, one can spy an occasional parent toilet training their young charges in full public view doing what comes natural over grating-covered storm drains by the pavement. Public toilets appear to be hard to come by and may be another reason for turning a grating-covered drain into a public toilet.
Zhang Mo Tou and DongguanGetting back to Lo Wu after Dongmen, we hop onto a train, not an MTR, which travels at fast clip of 160 kmh to the next town, Zhang Mo Tou, a journey of 20 minutes. There we are driven to the next town where our relative works in Dongguan, a half hour trip.
Along the way, we see blocks of four or five storey apartments that are obviously abandoned and all dark, the consequence of factories retrenching staff, who have since left for their home towns and villages. The abandoned buildings are a rude awakening of the consequence of the global recession. But the bleak sight takes a turn for better when we pass by strawberry farms by the roadside when we are out of town.
Having myself visited factories and process plants in different sectors in my work, I am impressed by the tour of the factory, in which our relative is in-charge. It makes pressure vessels for hot water systems of buildings, among others. We have dinner at a hotel-cum restaurant at Dongguan which is sumptuous and surprisingly at very reasonable cost. The meal of Peking duck, scallops, broccoli and stuffed bean curd skin cost a total of CNY180 or about US$26.
With energy fully topped up, we are driven back to Zhang Mo Tou to catch a train back to the border town of Lo Wu where we go through immigration formalities in reverse, presenting our passports in China, then at Hong Kong, before taking the MTR back from Kowloon to Hong Kong island. It is almost midnight when we get to Central station which is followed by a 20-minute walk back to the hotel.
More Hong Kong itinerary : Victoria PeakHaving head so much about the bird’s eye view of Hong Kong, we made a beeline on an internal road at Pier 7 where bus 15 picks up passengers for a trip to Victoria Peak. Rather than take the funicular train, we decide the trip by normal bus will provide breathtaking views, as it wends it way uphill, which proved to be right.
At the top, the bus stop under a building and we gain access into what is a three-storey neighbourhood shopping centre. Here there are shops selling knick-knacks and eateries from coffee joints to restaurants offering fusion food. A viewing gallery at level three provides a nice view of neighbouring peaks and apartments built atop the hillsides. Unfortunately, the clear blue sky we are hoping for is nowhere to be seen and the view is of skyscapers being masked by a layer of fog that refuse to dissipate in the two hours we are at Victoria Peak.
Getting out of the shopping centre, a short walk brings us to another smaller building, this one housing the funicular train station which also has eateries within. We wander to an access road on one side of the building that leads to a track going slightly downhill allowing one to to get to the mid-levels. We decide that a return trip on the scenic bus ride is a good choice and bus 15 brings us back to the waterfront pier, after which we walk back to the hotel.
With half day left of our four days in Hong Kong, we take a tram ride to Wanchai where we imbibe in the flavour and sights of the traditional shopping streets. Subsequently, we catch the MTR back to Sheung Wan where we exchange the balance of money left in our Octopus cards for cash. Then it is back to the hotel to check out and off in a short taxi ride to the Hong Kong-Macau ferry.
CosplayAt an earlier trip to Mongkok shopping street in Kowloon in the evening, there is a male and female dressed up in costumes to do with some local TV series. The streets in the vicinity are closed to traffic. Standing on chairs, the 'actor' and 'actress' will move and act out their parts when shoppers put some money on the road beside them.
Labels: Asia, cruise, culture, Dongguan, Dongmen, Hong Kong, Lo Wu, photography, southern China, travel, vacation, Vietnam
