The Other Side

I took a 12-day break in April 2009 and went on a cruise from Singapore to Vietnam and Hong Kong, disembarking at Hong Kong, on my own programme, and headed to Macau before flying home.

Shipboard
The Costa Allegra, a 30,000 ton passenger ship, is operated by owners who are of Italian origin. With their characteristic European marketing connections, the clientale differs from other ships that cater to predominantly Asian passengers. One great difference is that western passengers like to lounge at the pool-side soaking in the sun whereas Asian guests steer away from the pool, and at best, hide in the shade.

Although the full itinerary was 14 days, I opt for the six-day programme as I want to disembark at Hong Kong. Except for a restaurant at the stern of the ship at Level 5, Levels 6 and 7 are for public facilities like food outlets, swimming pool and Jacuzzi to a spa and gymnasium, through to recreational areas such as walkways spanning the length and breadth of the ship. My cabin is located at Level 4 just off the lobby and central staircases and lifts linking the cabins with public areas.

Cabin
A medium-sized vessel in comparison with the behemoths of twice to three times its size nowadays, the cabin I am allocated is spacious with generous cupboard and counter space. The bathroom iis compact with retractable curtain enclosing the bath area. Two port windows at the cabin let in sunlight or moonlight while allowing me to look out and enjoy a glimpse of nearby landmarks that are visible or when out at sea to be mesmerised by the thrashing waves washing alongside the vessel.

Food
Living a carefree life, eating is no doubt the highlight of each day onboard.
There is a choice of eating buffet style for all five meals a day or one could opt to be pampered and served in another restaurant. The choice also extends to an additional restaurant offering fine food that passengers must pay, to other outlets that are open at teatime offering pizza or buffet snacks at the poolside during suppertime.

Buffet style suits me fine. On a typical day, the food line starts with a choice of bread, cheese, bread and butter, greens, a soup and hot dishes like potato, fish slices and bacon. The buffet set-up is completed with separate stations for egg omelette with self-service bread toaster, and beverage dispensers such as cold and hot water to coffee and dish. No thanks to the use of plastic mugs, the hot water and beverages do taste different.

In the restaurant-with-service, kudos to the chefs for providing Asian dishes in the western menu that offers full seven courses from appetizer, soup, entrée and desert to side dishes of vegetables and cheese at every meal. For dinner, this restaurant has two seatings, which must be pre-booked, and it is fixed once you are allocated a table. Free seating is the order of the day for breakfast and lunch but you are directed to join a table that is half-full.

Ports-of-call
It will be good if the ship operator is more forthcoming with information at ports-of-call, their locations and distance from towns, and alternative transport arrangements, instead of pushing the land excursions in its programme. It should be left open to passengers who have different interests to be given the option to decide on what to do at each port.

Ho Chi Minh City
As the port is located up Saigon river, it takes nearly 1-1/2 hours to sail from the estuary to eventually berth at Lotus Port, which is about 25 minutes via land transport from downtown. The trip up river is interesting passing much of the marshland, and little pockets of houses, giving way subsequently factories, oil storage and ship repairing activities, before revealing glimpses of high buildings as we approach the city. Along the way, the ship blasts its air horn several times to warn off smaller vessels which can be deafening to passengers enjoying the view at the front section of the ship. We are finally berthed at the port with a half-completed bridge in full view testifying to changes and growth of Ho Chi Minh city.

Consequently, a Saigon port shuttle at 7 euros per head wends its way through dusty roads and older parts of the city before hitting the nicer part of Saigon. From Rex Hotel, which is the drop-off and pick-up point, a local guide provides a local map of neighbouring attractions that are within walking distance. On our return, some enterprising retailers are on hand outside Rex Hotel to sell locally made three foldable fans for US$2.

Along the road, one can’t help noticing the wild tangle of overhead electrical cables and branches from the main wires leading to houses to tap the electricity, giving rise to thoughts of public safety.

Ben Thanh market
We make our way to the well publicised Ben Thanh market. Within this one-storey and non-airconditioned historical building with high ceiling, there are rows and rows of stalls offering local food, snacks, clothes and accessories. It is a place to go to get a feel of local culture albeit a little stuffy.

Having been warned about the blatant dishonesty of pedal cab drivers in several travel websites, we decide to take a taxi for the 10-minute journey costing US$2 .50 to an airconditioned shopping centre, known as Diamond Plaza. It has a food court and we partake of the local fare including three bowls of chicken noodle soup, four fruit juices and two plates of Vietnamese spring rolls. The lunch for four persons amounts to US$16 in total.

Within few minutes walking distance from Diamond Plaza is the Notre Dame church and the general post office building that can pass off as a train station. Owing partly to what we thought is a lack of time, we decide to limit ourselves to go about the town, instead of joining a local tour. We make it back well before the cut-off time stated for return to the ship. Subsequently, we fing there are still other buses ferrying people back after the given deadline which makes a mockery of the whole situation. I suppose exceptions can be made if one takes the land excursion organised by the ship!

One highlight marking our arrival and departure at Lotus Port is the appearance of a group of 20 girls in traditional Vietnamese costumes who line the berth and release a bunch of balloons. It prove to be popular with many passengers.

Danang
After leaving Ho Chi Minh city late in the afternoon as the ship has to traverse through the maze to reach the open sea, it is another two nights’ sailing before we reach Danang. The port is located is at the tip of headlands and set on the opposite side is a mountain range which is replete with morning mist and clouds to make the approach a memorable sight. It is as if we are entering Shangri-la. As the ship is helped alongside the berth, a long bridge and the city with its tall buildings come into view.

One sight that strikes me is the fishing boats with nets upfront that can be lowered into the water, plying within the heart of the harbour suggesting that fish can still be found despite the port activities. It implies that port operations have not affected the livelihood of fishermen or is it a case of activities haven’t picked up to the detriment of fish breeding in the vicinity?

With its wide roads and well-laid out infrastructure, Danang is a pleasant surprise after what I remember of the dust that is almost everywhere on the outskirts of Ho Chi Minh city. It turns out that Danang owes its well laid-out infrastructure to its unique position as a logistics base used by the USA during the north-south Vietnamese war.

We decide to take a short walk out to the main gate of the port where we find a driver, named Toan, with MPV who is prepared to take us on a 7-hour trip for US$80. It is left open but we sort of agreed that the itinerary will include a visit to the famous marble mountain, a tour of Hoi-An, a world heritage town and lunch at what looked like miles and miles of beaches at Danang.

Just as we get into the MPV, a couple of other aggrieved taxi-drivers also waiting in the vicinity takes issue with our driver and practically force open the door suggesting we take other cabs available. We dong't like this rough-shod technique and decide to walk back into the port to the ship. The MPV follows us and the driver assures us that he will not get into trouble with the other group, before we decide to board it again.

All things marble
It takes half hour driving to reach the foot of marble mountain and the driver stop along the way at a shop with lots of marble carvings. As they are obviously too big to be of interest to us, we are shown little trinkets and accessories made of marbles and other colour stones. Subsequently, we take a walk up the marble mountain nearby where an entry fee of 15,000 dong (US$1) is charged. There are more shops selling trinkets and accessories at lower prices at the foot of the mountain. As two members in my group are returning via ship, in a moment of folly, we decide to buy two heavy marble pestles, each weighing around 4kg.

Lunch at a seaside restaurant near Hoi-An is interesting where we are able pick empty shells off the beach. The meal comprises four dishes, mostly seafood including lack pepper blue crabs, BBQ prawns, a soup and vegetables for US$66. After lunch, we check out a neighbouring eatery offering fusion western meal at two-third the price of what we paid, a good lesson to look around before making any decision!

Heritage town
Our hunger satiated, we make out way to Hoi-An, designated a heritage town where locals do business in quaint, low one or two-storey wooden buildings. Intricate carvings of balconies at the second floor catch my attention as we stroll along the narrow tree-lined roads filled with shops. To preserve its heritage, I understand that no new buildings are permitted at Hoi-An. The quintessential spirit for preserving this place is captured in a quaint road sign that says “The Town For Walkers And Primitive Vehicle Users”. Lending authenticity to the theme of heritage town are sights such as a craftsman carving souvenirs from wood.

We stumble onto an open-air market with many make-shift stalls selling everything from uncooked food including meat, poultry and seafood to clothes, accessories, bags and all manner of products. The stuffiness and somewhat raw smell of uncooked food and having to share the tight passage ways with passing motorcycles takes the joy out of walking through this part of town.

Turning a corner, I spy a lady washing clothes using brackish water from the river as I reflect how tough life can get for someone who does not have access to tap water which many of us take for granted.

Beach galore
After Hoi-An, the driver takes us to China beach, where entrepreneurs are only now building five-star hotels to capitalise on this natural attraction of Danang - the miles and miles of beach. One of the very few resorts already in operation, and ahead of the pack opening up in the next one year, I am told, charge US$200 per night. But there are other three-star hotels charging US$30 a night, though when we stop at one further inland from the beach to check, we are told the lowest rate is US$45 a night.

Though hot and sunny, it is relaxing and enjoyable to be sitting at the beach stretching as far as the eye can see, thanks to the lower humidity and strong breeze. From the beach, we can see in the distance a mountain range, partially shrouded by clouds, and what looks like a large statue of the Kuan Yim diety providing a glimpse of added attractions for future visits. We are told that several new resorts are under construction in the mountains but they are are too far to be seen.

To cap the tour, the driver brings us to a local coffee-shop with extended seating of tables and stools on the pavement. Sitting on low stools, we partake of local coffee provided in little cups, more like expresso, which come along with a free pot of tea. Each coffee cost US$0.35 cents and is a treat from our guide.

As Danang is directly accessible from the open sea, our departure for Hong Kong is scheduled early in the night providing nostalgic moments while dining aboard the ship as we watch the twinkling city and bridge lights disappear from view and headed into the darkness.